BREAD, BUTTER AND JAM: Let’s start with the basics!

Over the last couple of months the E5 have been collaborating with a charity called Inspire! – to give some local school children the opportunity to see what happens behind the scenes at the Bakehouse.

 

Inspire! asked if we would help them to deliver their iDiscover STEM (Science, Technology, Engineering and Mathematics) programme for primary schools. The aim of the programme is to introduce children to a variety of work environments and job opportunities related to the above areas of their curriculum.

 

Two groups of year 3 students from local schools, Thomas Fairchild Primary and Morningside Primary, came to visit us for a day of short workshops focusing on the science behind baking. Jess, one of our bakers, talked to the students about how we get from sacks of grain to loaves of bread, and she had some examples of grain, flour and bread dough and bread for everyone to study. She also introduced them to our mill in all it’s operating glory.

 

We decided that there’s nothing better to accompany this serious business of producing bread than good old butter and jam making, so we got our local butter guru Miro in for the session to shake some jars of cream with the kids – this was a really fun part of the day! They got to see in front of their own eyes how cream turns into butter, and they all helped to squish the butter into shape.

 

Janke, one of our pastry chefs, then got everyone to put some rhubarb samples at different stages of jam into chronological order and made students guess what the magic pectin rich ingredient in our rhubarb jam is – a gooey apple stock!

 

At the end of the workshop everyone got to eat the fruits of their labour – bread, butter and jam – for many it was the first time they tasted rhubarb jam or sourdough bread, and it all got a double thumbs up from the children and staff!

 

Over the course of the day the children had plenty of opportunities to ask questions about the processes and about the kind of jobs we have on offer here. One of the best questions was: “How does it make you feel when you do your job?” to which Jess, Miro and Janke all replied in one way or another: AMAZING. Follow your dreams and do what makes you happy!

 

We look forward to working with Inspire! again in the future.

 

 

Ujima Bakehouse Fundraiser

Across 3 nights e5 bakehouse are hosting a series of supper clubs in aid of Ujima Bakehouse in Kenya – a social enterprise bakery operating as an extension of the valuable work of two charities; UJIMA and PEEK vision.  Offering a real environment for young people within their programme to receive practical training as well as a viable means of earning revenue for the charities

 

PEEK vision provides Kenyans living in rural areas with sight-restoring treatment. For every 100 loaves sold at the bakery, one person has their eye sight restored. 

 

Back in early 2015 Ben flew the bakehouse for a couple of weeks to help the Ujima founders Madeleine and Andrew Bastawrous to set up the bakehouse.  He was working to train a team of novice bakers in Maili Saba, a lodge around 20 miles from Nakuru, Kenya’s 4th largest city when the bakery is situated.  

Across all three nights chef Ruth Quinlan will be serving a feast of food inspired by East African cuisine. On the first evening (Thursday 4th) there will also be a talk by founders Madeleine & Andrew Bastawrous.

 

Full menu coming soon.

 

Please note that drinks will not be included in the ticket price but there will be a bar.  

Seating @ 8pm in the Millhouse Arch 396 Mentmore Terrace. 

 

100% OF TICKET PRICE GOES TO UJIMA BAKEHOUSE. FIND OUT MORE ABOUT WHAT THEY DO HERE.

 

Louis Lamour, French baker extraordinaire.

The importance of exchanging ideas and expertise can often get overlooked when you have your hands in dough for most of the week. However, welcoming another baker into the fold can be incredibly valuable for everyone involved, especially when said baker has as varied a background as Louis Lamour. Born and bred in Paris, Louis has been a baker for the last decade, working in independent bakeries but also travelling the world for an additive company. This has given him a unique insight into the impact of modern science on the most ancient of crafts. Louis came and joined us for a week earlier this month, and since he’s in the process of setting up a bakery back home we seized the opportunity to quiz him on the French baking scene. Here’s what he had to say. 

 

So Louis, what brings you to e5?

 

One of my British clients brought me to the Farm to Loaf symposium in October. Since I’m in the process of opening my own bakery I wanted to come and see how you guys are working as I think you’re doing a pretty good job.

 

The British bread industry has transformed beyond recognition in the last century. How has the french bread industry changed? 

 

The good thing about France compared to the UK is that the majority of people, 75%, still buy their bread at the bakery rather than the supermarket. We have kept small companies, and the regions still have their own specialities. But also the quality has decreased a lot, especially with the help of improvers which have made the dough easier to mechanise. Bakers are losing the touch of the dough and relying on the functional ingredients to do the job they should be doing. 

 

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What do you mean by ‘improvers’?

 

So when you buy flour in France it will usually contain some ingredients which will help the tolerance of the dough, the volume of the dough, the colouring of the bread during the baking period. These might be ascorbic acid, enzymes or emulsifiers. Most millers add that to their flour for the baker to have an easier job and the customers to have a good volume for their money.

 

A lot of people might wonder why someone so interested in natural bread would have worked in the additive business.

 

I worked for a company which basically invented the bread improver and have done a good job of spreading it all over the world. I was a technical advisor so I was training colleagues and training customers how to use the improvers and bread mixes.

I’ve always liked natural, simple bread but I think that what really motivated me to do that job was first that I would learn a lot about the technical side of things. Often in baking something happens and you don’t understand why. A company like that does a lot of research and development, for example you would test 10 doughs which are identical except for 1 enzyme that would be dosed differently, to check the texture or check the volume. Secondly what was really interesting for me was travelling and meeting bakers from all over the world, as the bread culture in Asia is so different to the one in South America and North America and Eastern Europe and so on.

 

 

 

When setting up a bakery, do you have good flour suppliers to choose from in France?

 

When you set up a bakery in France you have to decide which mill you will be working with and they will be in charge of financing a lot of the investment. Therefore you are a little bit stuck with them afterwards meaning you have to buy your wheat from them until your loan is over. This means they will also put their brand on your bakery. That said, the variety of the flour they offer is quite wide so you could choose to buy enriched T55 for baguette, or you could choose stoneground white. It is sometimes quite difficult to find out where the flour has come from, whether it is French or not. 

 

 There’s obviously a lot of fairly new sourdough bakeries in London. Is this movement going on in Paris too?

 

Most bakeries will sell you what they call sourdough but in most cases it will contain up to 0.2% fresh yeast which for some people just isn’t real sourdough. I’d rather not use fresh yeast if I can because I think the fewer ingredients the easier it is to control the quality of those ingredients. Also I think the quality of bread made without yeast is a lot better. 

There are speciality sourdough bakeries opening up but they use conventional flour or don’t communicate whether its stoneground, heritage or where it comes from. The angle is more about the look and feel of the shop.

 

What are the main differences you have found between British and French bread culture?

 

Here in Britain, from what I understand, most people buy bread from the supermarket and the culture is to make toast, whereas in France most people are buying baguettes. Any small bakery will make between 300 and 500 baguettes on any given day. People in France buy bread everyday. The way bread is perceived is different; we eat fresh bread all the time, you can buy it several times a day; you can buy once at lunch and once at dinner. In Britain you buy it every time you go shopping which is not everyday, therefore the bread cannot be the same, it has to perform differently.

 

Have you found any big differences in the techniques we use at e5 compared to what your used to?

 

The first difference would be that you guys mix by hand a lot and that is something I’ve never seen being done in a French bakery except in some very particular places, people like Nicolas Supiot who are especially known for it. In a commercial bakery I haven’t seen people mixing by hand so that was very unique, and the texture of the dough is very unique because of the flour that you mill yourselves. This also effects how you have to shape it because you cannot stress it the same way as you can conventional flour. You guys use very hydrated doughs and it benefits the quality the bread   even though its more time-consuming to shape. It’s a sacrifice you make for the quality of the bread. 

 

Do you feel positive for the future of French baking?

 

I’m afraid to see the development of franchises which only sell frozen dough. I think there will always be a niche of people buying expensive and good bread and there will always be a mass market who want cheap bread. We now see bakeries selling three baguettes for €1.50- you can barely make money with that, so they are buying frozen dough in from other companies and they become dependent on that. In this time of crisis you can understand that people cannot spend so much on bread, but what really saddens me is that people spend €1000 on their phone, but are not willing to spend a few extra cents on the bread that they eat everyday which is keeping them alive.

 

Finally Louis, as a lifelong Parisian, can you tell us where to buy the best baguettes in Paris?

 

I would go to Rodolphe Landemaine or  Djibril Bodian at Le Grenier a Pain )

 

And what about here the best croissant?

 

I would head a bit outside Paris, to my friend at Le p’tit Père.

NO BORDERS Food and Film Festival

After the success of our of work the The Refugee Council on the recent Just Bread project we were keen to keep momentum going.  As well as provide further opportunities to work with Refugees, helping them build confidence in the skills they learned during the baking course.

 

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This time around e5 and The Refugee Council are bringing you NO BORDERS Film and Food Festival. 

A series of four nights dedicated to films which focus on frontiers, barriers and how people and information pass through them. The Festival will run on across four evenings starting on the 26th of November with INFILTRATORS. A Film which follows Palestinian residents being forced to avoid check points day after day.  Over the wall or through tunnels, Palestinians are crossing the borders. Prisoners of their own land, they are risking their lives everyday.

 

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Included in the cost will be fantastic regional food prepared by two graduated trainees from our recent ‘Just Bread’ program with help and advice from E5 Bakehouse chef Ruth Quinlan.  With the screening to be followed by talks from two experts in the field Sharri Plonski and Toufic Haddad from SAOS University of London. 

 

This week the women were practicing the menu and judging by the smells wafting from the kitchen it’s safe to say this event is not to be missed! 

 

You can find further information on all the nights and buy tickets at e5bakehouse.squarespace.com or pop into the cafe and speak to one of our staff.

Farm to Loaf event at e5 – tickets available now

We’re very excited to be hosting a day of talks where farmers, millers, heritage wheat specialists and sourdough bakers who’ve inspired us over the last five years will come together, exchange ideas and talk about their experiences to the public.  We’ll be thinking about the evolution of grains, heritage varieties, milling methods and our experience moving towards baking with UK grown stoneground flour. Sheila Dillon (BBC Food Programme) will be chairing discussions with our speakers and attendees. 

 

Tickets include entrance and all refreshments, a seasonal organic lunch and tastings of e5 sourdough. 

 

Tickets available here: http://farmtoloaf.eventbrite.co.uk

 
Speakers as follows:
 
Per Grupe and Fintan Keenan
The Danish approach. Inter-row tillage, Scandi land races, on farm milling (Practical Knowledge Transfer).

 

Nick Fradgely, Organic Research Centre
Developing unique wheat populations for organic plant breeding and research on maintaining healthy soils.

 
John Clohesy
What farmers can do to make their wheat best suited for bread making.

 

 

 

Andrew Wilkinson, Gilchesters Organics
Pioneering Farmer and wheat breeder. Story of organic conversion and serving up on site milling operations.

 

John Letts, Archaeo-botanists and Farmer
Collection of heritage varieties, farming approach and milling results.

 

Nicolas Supiot
Pioneer of Boulanger-Paysan movement in France. Discusses wood-fired oven baking, heritage farming and sourdough baking. Think Soil. 

 

Jojo Tulloh
How hard is it to grow your own flour?  UK food writer Jojo looks at the history behind England’s wheat fields and brings it up to the present day ahead of her new book.

 

Kate Hayter, e5 baker
Talks on how shifting to UK grown stoneground flour has needed adaptations in recipes and techniques (Live demo).

 

Andy Forbes
Leading researcher in applied heritage grain farming. Talks about how to broaden take up by farmers, to get amazing flour to bakers. 

 

 Andrew Whitley

Scotland The Bread project, the question of nutrient density in wheat development, and the public health implications of differing milling and baking choices.

 

Yard work.

With the summer sun just around the corner we decided it was time to put a little love and attention into the yard space at the back of the bakery. Not only because sunshine means we can once again enjoy our staff lunches outside; but along with the opening of the new arch we’re hoping to be able to offer up the extra seating space to our brunch customers too. 

 

Rubble and mulch

Rubble and mulch

 

Taking the few plants we had growing on the roof of our shipping container as a starting point we’ve been busy transforming the yard a greener place to be. Making good use of the lost objects hanging around by transforming them into a potential planters for our growing seedlings. 

 

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Planting

 

The new e5 gardening club, which runs every Tuesday led by our green fingered KP Sofia, have been busy planting a mix of flowers and herbs in their new beds.  We were pleased to be able to use some of the rubble from the recent building work as a base followed by mulch provided by the kind folk at Bootstrap roof garden in Dalston. So far, we’ve got a mix of rocket, dill and mustard as well as sunflowers, poppies and nasturtiums. 

Seedlings

Seedlings

 

We’re hoping that come summer the seedlings will be flourishing, and we’ll be able to use the herbs and flowers growing in our cafe and kitchen.

 

Last week also saw the arrival of these three ladies to the bakehouse yard garden. So far they seem to settling into yard life nicely but we’ll keep you updated…

 

The ladies

 

Just (Flat)Bread

Every Tuesday morning for the last month, eight refugee women have been joining the team at e5 on a unique bread making course. 

 

The Just Bread program, funded by The Refugee Council, was created to support the therapeutic needs of refugee women, whilst enabling them to learn new baking skills and ultimately paving the way to regular employment in this country.  Together with weekly bread making classes here at the bakery, participants also receive on-going employment support, English classes and other training opportunities to ensure they have a real chance of finding employment and building a future for themselves in the UK.

 

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Following the success of the first group based at a bakery in South London, when we were approached to be involved in working with the second round of trainees we were immediately keen. The eight women hail from several countries from North Africa to the Middle East and their eclectic knowledge of cuisines and baking proved an inspiring starting point. 

 

We began with a general introduction to sourdough and the chemical processes involved in turning three basic ingredients into a loaf of bread.  The group quickly got involved in baking their first Hackney Wild loaf, then moved on to experiment with other European breads such as ciabatta and bagels.

 

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Over the following few weeks the classes naturally evolved into sharing and exchanging recipes and methods from traditional forms of bread making. Blending the sourdough processes they’ve learned with flavours and techniques familiar to the women involved.

So far, this experimentation has included Turcoman and Tibetan flatbreads made using a buckwheat and a buttermilk starter; and with the help of chef Ruth Quinlan the group have also been experimenting with creating some savoury salads and dips to complement the flatbreads.

 

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We’re very excited to see what happens as we continue; and the next step looks to see the women selling their fusion sourdough flatbreads together with tasty sides as part of our usual lunch service.  Keep an eye out in May not only for these delicious flat bread offerings but also the opening of our new arch.

 

We’re happy to let you in a secret…the 3rd arch is not only home to the e5 Mill but also our brand spanking new wood fired pizza oven!  So we’re also excited to confirm that some of the trainees will be working with e5, providing wood-fired flatbreads and toppings at Secret Cinema’s production this summer. 

Milling at e5

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At e5 we make our bread with as few ingredients as possible so it’s important to us to understand every step of where those ingredients come from. This in turn is partly why it’s always been a priority for us to use British flour in our baking as much as possible. However this can be hard task in the quantity we require. 

 

This ideal led us to the idea of milling our own flour; not only to have more control over where the grains we use come from but to have access to flour milled on site at its freshest, giving us more flavoursome and nutritious bread. 

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We hope to form strong relationships with the farms providing our grains. Creating partnerships with famers so that we have in depth knowledge of growing conditions and soil treatment as well as having more information on the nutritional values of different types of grain in our breads.

 

P1226772In the past it’s been difficult for us to use solely British grains as they naturally have a much lower protein content, which is why there is so much imported grain from Canada and Kazakhstan. It is the protein content in the flour which gives the bread its strength and rise which is why our gilchester buns (made form 100% british flour) have much less volume than a Hackney Wild. 

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

However, we’re determined to experiment with British varieties until we find the right combination to give us the results we want and stay true to our values.

 

Knowing that stone milling is essential for cold extraction of flour causing minimal damage to the vitamins and essential oils present in grains we contacted Austrian company Osttiroler Getreidemuhen. They have have been operating in the mill industry for 77 years and supplied us with a beautiful pine wood artisan stone mill with special cut stones to guarantee the best quality of flour.

 

Initially we contacted farmers from across Britain as well as France, Sweden and the Netherlands to get a variety of grain to experiment with. After trying many combinations our bakers found they were getting some nice results with a mix of paragon and amaretto grains, both grown in the UK, but they’re far from finished. We hope that in the future we can focus more on heritage varieties however this is something we’ll need to look to working towards as we develop partnerships with farmers.   

 

Our next step is to improve our own knowledge by learning from the passionate farmers and millers we currently work with.  Such as Andrew from Gilchesters Organic farm in Northumberland who has over 8 years of experience within organic crop research. Over the next months he has kindly agreed to share his years of experience in milling with us for some training. Keep your eyes peeled for further experimental breads for sampling in the bakehouse as we continue. 


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Gilchester’s Organic Farm Visit

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As the sun rose over east London a small group of us (four two-legged, one four-legged) left e5 Bakehouse to begin a journey that would take us just south of the Anglo-Scottish border and back in one day.

 

Our brief excursion could be described as a pilgrimage of sorts. Our destination; Gilchester’s Organic Farm, Northumberland, where Andrew and Billie Wilkinson are growing and milling some of what we consider to be the best quality grains available in the UK. With the flour from Gilchester’s giving rise to many of our most-loved breads ( the heritage wholemeal, fruit loaf, Gilchester buns and most recently, our bread sticks ), we wanted to learn more about Andrew and Billie’s important work with heritage varieties of wheat and what it’s like to grow in the unpredictable climate of the UK.

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Upon picking us up from Newcastle train station, we immediately began to bombard Andrew with a raft scientific questions. Possessing a PHD in wheat genetics, luckily he was well-used to explaining the intricacies of grain. We touched on phytic acid, and the importance of slow fermentation in releasing the nutrients held in flour and making them digestible. The subjects of nutrition and fermentation were to crop up throughout the day, between us we made good use of Andrew’s formidable intellect and patience…

 

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Arriving at the farm, we received the warmest welcome possible from Billie, who supplied us with much-needed coffee and muffins warm from the Aga. The farm is where the family live and work, and raising children in a chemical and pesticide-free environment was crucial to the Wilkinsons. The farm utilises age-old practices, and employs an animal husbandry program rotating fields of wheat for grazing of rare breed cattle. They are also committed to reinstating hedgerows to promote wildlife. However, farming these lands is immensely unpredictable, and the weather over the last few years has not been kind to Gilchester’s, resulting in severe flooding and bad harvests. Happily though, with a good harvest this year conditions are also looking favourable for a good crop next year. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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One of Andrew’s areas of expertise is in older varieties of wheat that predate the introduction of agro-chemicals, pesticides and chemical fertilisers. Modern varieties of wheat are bred for a higher yield, and ease of harvest, and due to legislation there are only few companies and varieties which can be legally sold which means the genetic diversity is significantly less than historically when farmers held back seed from previous years sharing and selling their seed through an unregulated market system.

Andrew’s wheat is selected from Swiss seed banks and grows at over twice the height of the modern varieties  This also means it has deep root systems which draw up more minerals and nutrients from the soil than modern varieties which has a favourable impact on flavour.

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In the barn where he mills, Andrew combines the skill of the artisan combined with the efficiency of modern machinery to get the very best from his wheat. The grains are thoroughly cleaned before being milled on volcanic Naxos stone. Andrew informs us that the stone mill is an inherently cold extraction process that causes minimal damage to the vitamins and essential oils present in the grains.

His methods produce some of the finest and most consistent wholemeal we have come across at the Bakehouse. A testament to his experience and his finely-tuned ear. The milling equipment, cutting edge and industrial though it is, is also incredibly attractive and artisanal in appearance being crafted of pale wood. We commented that in no other industry had we seen such high-tech machinery that looks this beautiful. 

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Our day ended with a walk lit by the waning afternoon sun through stubble from this year’s harvest to a field beginning to sprout with next summer’s spelt crop. To see the farm for ourselves, and all the hard work and care that goes into producing the flour we receive was a real privilege, and we hope Gilchester’s grains become more and more integral to our work at the Bakehouse.

Maili Saba.

As some of you may know, Ben has flown the bakehouse for a couple of weeks to help with an exciting project in Kenya.  He’s helping to train a team of bakers for a brand new bakehouse in Maili Saba, a lodge around 20 miles from Nakuru, Kenya’s 4th largest city.  The bakery will operate as an extension of the valuable work of two charities; UJIMA and PEEK. Offering a real environment for young people within their programme to receive practical training as well as a viable means of earning revenue for the charities.

 

In this post Ben reports back after the first week to let us know how he’s getting on…

 

Today was the final day of a 2 day baking workshop for a group of potential bakers.  They have been selected via the Ujima and PEEK charities and principally Madeleine Bastawrous, the driving force behind UJIMA bakehouse.

Madeleine spent several years in Nakuru with her husband as he established the PEEK eye care programme which is now gaining momentum as a revolutionary means of using technology to restore eyesight to the many in rural areas who do not have access to diagnosis.

 

During their time here in Kenya they noticed how limited bread and bakeries are (there’s basically a white or brown tin loaf).  Little consideration is given to improving quality, variety or nutritional value.  The breads contain sugars, oils and other additives and are undoubtedly not a healthy option, but there are a considerable number of people, ex-pat and local who are crying out for a change.  Madeleine and Andrew spotted this opportunity and began to dream.

 

They contacted e5 back in summer 2013 and we invited them to join us for a bread class.  During the class Mads shared her vision for a Maili Saba bakehouse and I offered my services, which is how, 18 months down the line, I come to be here.  On my first day I headed into town on the hunt for flour accompanied by the director of the new bakehouse, Redempta; she’s amazing with people and great at organising, which is just as well.  

Happily, serendipity had struck the evening before when Shanti Shah came over to my table and wished us a good evening, it transpired he owns two bakeries in town.  I’m not sure what he really thought about our project, I was quick to assure him it was a small bakery!  Next day, Redempta and I rock up to his place and have a look around.  Tobias, the baker tips us off about Pembe Mill, and later that day we find the depot in town.  90kg is the only size they offer so we load up the truck with the  flour as well as picking up 20kg of wholemeal flour from supermarkets. 

 

The training took place at Maili Saba.  The bakehouse itself has been kitted out with fuse switches for oven and mixer, and tiled from floor to ceiling.  The equipment should arrive next week, so for now we used the lodges kitchen.

 

To begin with I tried to put the group at ease, if a hapless fool like me can get a bakery going they have to be in with a good chance!  However it was in the kitchen that we really started to relax.  

 

The starter I had brought from London had been refreshed the day before to make a 100% hydration leaven.  The next day it looked fantastic, bubbly and elastic.  An overnight kitchen temp of 14C allowing for a long, slow ferment.

 

We made a range of breads, 73% hydration white, 83% hydration wholemeal, and bit of a wild card, an 87% hydration with white and wholemeal at 50:50 ratio. As well as a yeasted ciabatta dough using a biga prepped the evening before following a browse of Hammelman’s book with the kitchen team.

 

We were using a charcoal oven which we hadn’t quite cranked up enough so breads didn’t get the oven spring I would have wished and sealed quickly in a dry heat.  However they did work, and there were favourable comments from the guests and trainees we served it to at dinner that evening.

 

Day 2 has been more upbeat! We worked on bagels, a Maili Saba white at 75% hydration and the Mailia Saba Wild at 87% hydration.  As well as using up leftover leaven to make some delicious crackers, seasoned with rosemary, sea salt and black pepper and finished off with some awesome multigrain loaves as well.

 

This time we fired the oven hard and got some great tanned crusts and big spring.  Everyone went home feeling they’d learnt about the history of our bread culture, the biology of grains and science of sourdough, and with a big bag of bread to share with friends and family.

 

Next week we’re back to it! Hopefully with a commercial bread oven and a pitch at a local school where we hope to offer samples and drum up interest.

 

Stay tuned for the next installment…In the mean time you can find out more about PEEK at this link; http://www.peekvision.org/. Below are images of the flour sourced and Ben with some of the UJIMA volunteers.

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